how we train

Aggression exits in many different forms and from many different causes, so each case is individualized for the dog and family.  All approaches rely on these training methods.

We offer specific programs for on leash aggression and aggression from resource guarding.

Overexcited / Oversocialized Dogs

Most dogs exhibit aggression out of frustration that they cannot reach something they actually want (such as other dogs they want to play with, people they want to meet, or bikes they want to chase as prey).  These dogs are taught that it is not acceptable for them to express that want through dramatic behaviors. 

It’s also important to communicate clearly to excited and frustrated dogs which situations are opportunities to play with others, and which situations are not social opportunities. Allowing your dog to greet other dogs while leashed has a very high chance of creating leash reactivity, often appearing to be aggression, because it eventually either: 

A) Teaches your dog that everyday walks or trips away from the house are social opportunities, not a time they should enjoy with you. Frustration is then created as they expect a chance to greet another dog and are restricted by the leash.

B) Allows for an uncomfortable moment to happen with another dog, leading your dog to the realization that they are trapped in leashed interactions and should prevent future leashed interactions by telling other dogs to stay away from them.

Fearful Dogs

Other dogs exhibit aggression out of fear, and believe they have survived thus far because of the way they react to things they perceive to be life threatening.  These dogs often develop what is called a “superstition”. A fearful superstition is a dog’s belief that they can prevent themselves from being attacked by showing aggression, rather than realizing that the things they’re scared of aren’t actually threatening in the first place.  These dogs tend to become increasingly fear aggressive over time because they believe they can stop bad things from happening by showing aggression and will “play it safe” by showing aggression any time something makes them nervous. Fear aggressive dogs require gentle ways of breaking that belief system, often including desensitization and  counter-conditioning. It can also be helpful to put your dog in a mildly scary situation and not allow them to show aggression through mild corrections as a way of proving to them that they are not in danger when they don’t act aggressively. This is how a superstition can be broken. 

Counterintuitively, strict obedience can also go a long way in easing a fearful dog’s aggression. Obedience commands allow you to provide your dog with clear instruction on how to handle a situation they’re unsure of. It provides relief from having to decide for themselves how to handle a stressful situation, and it builds trust and confidence as they learn to trust that the way you tell them to respond to the situation at hand is effective and safe.

Genetically Antisocial Dogs

Other dogs are aggressive because of genetic or instinctual reasons, and must be inhibited from expressing that tendency as well as given an appropriate outlet for it.

Some dogs are hard wired to dislike other dogs or unknown people, in which case we cannot make your dog want to be friends with other dogs or strangers. However, we can still teach them that it is not appropriate to instigate interactions with others that they dislike or to express their dislike by growling/barking/lunging at others that are respecting their personal space.

Resource Aggression

Resource aggression, or resource guarding, is when a dog uses aggression to maintain possession of something they find valuable, most often food, toys, owners, or spaces like their kennel or dog bed. Most dogs will begin to display resource aggression under the right circumstances, but it is genetic how easily a dog will begin to show this behavior. 

The first thing to do any time a dog is showing resource aggression is to eliminate sources of competition. For example, if your dog is guarding their food bowl, start feeding them separately from your other dogs and in a space that you don’t need to enter while they’re eating. Then wait to remove the food bowl until after your dog has been removed from the eating area. 

An “out” command (leave it / drop it) can then be used for situations that cannot be avoided, like putting toys away or handling a piece of food that was accidentally dropped. This allows you to command your dog to move away from the valued object instead of trying to take it from them yourself. 

Many dogs will also benefit from creating positive associations with situations they currently find threatening. For example, if your dog begins to show aggression when you walk towards their food bowl, we can teach them that you are simply going to drop more food into their bowl as you walk by and are not going to take the bowl away from them. 

Schedule a phone consultation to talk to a trainer and determine what the best approach do your dog’s displays of aggression may be.